April 3--Dublin to Belfast

We drove north out of Dublin, after paying our 888 euro balance at Number 31, through several round-abouts, to get to the M-1, a four to six lane highway that leaves Dublin and connects to the N-1, a coastal route north. It was to be a three and a half hour drive, with a side trip to Newgrange, a Neolithic passage tomb, dating from 3200 BC, that was the oldest site of its type in Ireland. We we're enthralled by our guide's remarks as we stood in front of the entrance overlooking two other similar tombs, a few miles away, in the distant sweeping meadows.

Our group entered the narrow, and sometimes short, passage to arrive at the central circular section where cremated remains were originally found. The Newgrange tomb is famous for its winter solstice alignment.  An opening, in the ceiling, over the entrance, allows for sunlight to enter the tomb and glow all the way down the passage to the central section. This can happen for a day or two at dawn on each side of the actual solstice date. So many people want to see this example of ancient engineering and mystery that Ireland has to hold a lottery for attendance.

We enjoyed Newgrange so much that we decided to drive about 45 minutes south to see Trim Castle, a siege fortress from the 12th century, that is still somewhat intact.  There, we were guided through the ruins, by a very competent and well informed guide. We learned about siege warfare:  burning the stairs as you raced into the castle...diverting rain off the steeply pitched roof to obtain drinking water...building a flared out skirt around the base of the keep to avoid tunneling by the enemy.

From Trim Castle, we drove to Comber, a rural suburb of Belfast, to the home of Ken and Anna Johnson. A two story atrium with picture windows all around had been added to their home, about ten years ago, making for a very dramatic setting to greet one's guests. There Anna served us tea while Ken answered the phone to take another booking. There were two upstairs bedrooms set aside for guests such as ourselves. Ours had a wee bathroom with shower and a side sitting room...for early risers like John.

Over tea, we learned that the Johnson's had lived there for 38 years, much of that time Ken, now 85, had worked as a structural engineer at the Belfast Shipyard. Anna, who had studied philosophy in college, raised two sons:  one now lives and works in Singapore for a bank, the other, a microbiologist researcher, is an Oxford professor.

We settled into our room and later drove to a nearby pub for a simple dinner. At a neighboring table, a young local couple struck up a conversation with us, asking if we were Canadians. We later agreed it was the nicest compliment we had received all day.  They recommended a number of stops for our journey.

As dinner was served, with our pints in hand, John toasted  "surviving the drive" and I toasted "the passage tomb at Newgrange."